Fermentation – The Foundation of South Indian Cooking
One must learn to ferment to get a true understanding of South Indian cuisine. From our pickles to our idlis/dosas to our yogurt, we rely heavily on the process of fermentation. So what is fermentation? To put it in simple terms, it is to simply wait. If you learn to wait, half the cooking is already done.
Practice the art of waiting
Wait for the pot to get hot.
Wait for the water to boil.
Wait till you get a sour smell in fermentation
Wait a few days before you mix the pickle before you wait again!
Wait… Wait… WAIT!
Good for your Guts
The best way to learn the art of waiting is to learn fermentation. The recipe that will teach you that is the humble Idli. This fermented and steamed recipe is the most essential South Indian breakfast. The fermentation creates good bacteria in the batter that is good for your gut health. Indian doctors recommend idlis as the first solid food for babies. If you are sick, have idli. If you are celebrating, have idli. Idlis are perfect for every occasion.
Use this recipe to make crispy dosas too!
Over the weekend, I made a fresh batch of idlis with a delicious instant pot sambar. Some families are so particular about their batters. They will use separate ratios and ingredients to make their batters. I use one ratio for most batters. Why? Because it makes my life easy and also the closest thing to home.
Notes:
There are variations. But the base ingredients of rice and dal remain the same. Some add poha or flattened rice flakes. Some add a handful of cooked rice and some add broken rice.
You can soak the urad dal an hour before grinding.
Ensure the pot is only filled halfway through to allow the fermented batter to rise.
I like mixing the batters with my hand to allow some bacteria from my hands to propel the fermentation process. I follow it up with a quick turn of my hand blender.
I like to place the batter in my instant pot or the microwave. The instant pot ferments the batter on yogurt mode. This usually takes about 6-10 hours in the summer and 18-30 hours in the winter.
Once fermented, the batter should have risen. Idlis can be made using a special idli cooker or by simply steaming the idli plate in a closed pot with a little water at the bottom. For either method, you will need to purchase a set of idli plates for the authentic idli.
A decade ago, I received a clock from an old employer/colleague/friend as a gift for my wedding. A simple clock in a rustic distressed wooden frame with a madhubani-esque design. Little did I know at the time that it was inspired by Madhubani art. Of all the expensive gifts I might have received during my wedding, this simple clock remains one of my prized possessions.
Tracing the art’s origin to Mithila (now Bihar), the Madhubani art form has remained relevant through the years all the way back from the times of Ramayana. With prominent eyes, pointy noses and the use of natural elements such as lotuses, fishes, peacocks and other animals, the characteristic Madhubani art is used to put forth powerful messages or stories with these intricate designs and bold depictions of gods and goddesses. The women of Mithila typically decorated their homes and walls using natural materials such as twigs, sandalwood, kumkum, dyes from flowers such as indigo and turmeric to create their works of art. Thanks to modern technology, we are now able to practice this art form using any art medium we want.
This pandemic has been a horrendous place so far. And we could all do with some wellness therapy to deal with the lows of this period. Art is a great way to get just that right in your very own home. I love turning to art to channel some of the bottled up anxiety, anger and frustrations. It has not only soothed me and helped me move to a better place. It always rewards me with the greatest gift in the end – an amazing piece of art to adorn my walls just like the women from Mithila.
Here are some of my baby steps in Madhubani. I have drawn inspiration for my art from various other artists.
Maa KaliGoddess SaraswatiRadha KrishnaGoddess Lakshmi
Deepavali/Diwali is India’s biggest festival. It is our Christmas. It is the festival we wait for all year long. People all over the country and abroad save up to spend lavishly on Diwali every year. Be it on sweets, clothes or fireworks. This is a festival that is grand in every respect. The name literally means Deepa for lamp and Oli for light. It is a festival that dispels evil and brings in joy. This year, especially, has been shrouded in darkness and we could all definitely do with a festival that brings in light and dispels darkness.
Diwali in India is a time when calories are at an all time high. The amount of food we eat during this period is so much that we even have an herbal remedy called “Deepavali marundhu” that is made on this special day to combat the after effects of eating such high caloric foods. One of the biggest reasons I I love this festival besides the lights is because it gives me a chance to not only have good food but an opportunity to make certain recipes that I wouldn’t make on a regular basis otherwise. No Diwali is complete without fried snacks and sweets in my home. Here are some of the amazing Diwali snacks and sweets I made this year!
Mul thenkuzhalThenkuzhalDoodh and Chocolate pedasKaju pista roll
Rasam, a humble South Indian brew of herbs and spices with sour fruits, owns an esteemed spot in a typical Madras samayal across homes in Tamil Nadu. The humble rasam recipe is so highly regarded that it makes a royal appearance in festive and wedding menus today. No South Indian meal is ever quite complete without a humble rasam.
Rasam Recipe – A Medicinal Broth
The Rasam recipe in Tamil Nadu came about originally to combat illnesses and is, to date, a recommendation made by doctors in South India for common colds and fevers. It is the dish we feed our children. And a good pot of Rasam will almost always garnish the recipe with the quintessential curry leaves in the Tamil version. A bowl of rasam saadham (rasam mixed with rice) laced with a nice dollop of ghee and a hot potato curry will have your child’s dinner tantrums a thing of the past. I’m yet to meet a child that does not like rasam.
Memories of Karnataka
Having studied in Karnataka for a couple of years, I had the opportunity to explore the Kannadiga rasam. While I love my Tamil way of making rasam, I was intrigued by our neighboring state’s highlight on tomatoes. As opposed to the tamarind-heavy broth loaded with toovar dal in Tamil Nadu, our neighbor makes a sweeter broth that lifts the flavors of the tomatoes, ginger, peppercorns, and lemon. Obviously, the secret to their rasam lies in their rasam powder.
Versatile Spice Powder for Rasam Recipe
This powder is quite different from our Tamil version. Undoubtedly, it is one of my favorites to cook potatoes with. Since my time in Karnataka, I have combined my Tamil recipe with a Kannadiga rasam powder. It is worth taking time out to make this recipe every 3-6 months. This powder is what makes your rasam pop, and it might be the best one you’ve had yet. Finally, to wrap this up, you can check out my recipe for the Kannadiga-inspired rasam powder here.
Kalpana was loading up canisters with fried snacks. She had been busy with preparing the batter for the snacks and sweets of different shapes, tastes and textures all morning. The smell of oil and incense from the pooja filled the air.
A week before Diwali, the entire family was busy with preparations for the grand celebration. This year was no less! Balaji and Devu were making a list. Flower pots, atom bombs, hydrogen bombs, Lakshmi vedi. They even argued over what number to choose for the saram. Devu said “10000. Anything less would be a shame”. They bought a truck load of crackers to make sure this Diwali was going to be just as cacophonous and more joyful than last year.
It was the morning of Diwali. Balaji and Devu’s father arranged the crackers like sweets at a baby shower. This was definitely going to be the most spectacular show on their block. Balaji and Devu were at it non-stop. The fireworks spewed colors and shapes so magical it made people feel their dreams were coming true. The vibrant colors in the sky spelled out the beauty of their culture. Balaji and Devu lit up hydrogen bombs at the same time. They even did a countdown. 5 4 3 2 1 …. BANG!
In a town called Sivakasi about 550kms away, 8-year old Amba’s hands burst. Her small hands were now strings of charred meat hanging off her charred bone. Amba’s employer had flouted local laws and safety measures yet again!
This is not so much of a post. I love sharing a few personal stories every now and then. And this is a small episode from our lives.
A few years ago, my husband and I had gone camping with his brother to Kings Canyon National Park in California. Believe me when I say this was our first time camping ever. We rented a tent and some camp gear before we headed to the park. Our first day was as eventful as one can imagine. With help from a nearby family, we managed to pitch our tent. We were so proud that we even celebrated with a nice meal of dosas cooked on our camp stove.
On that first night in our tent, it was pitch dark. The only sounds we heard was the faint rush of the King’s River flowing near our campsite and the sound of our breath against our sleeping bags. It was an utter thrill to be sleeping in the forest amid all the nature you can possibly ask for.
Roaring river falls, Kings Canyon National Park
I was content and almost on my way to subconscious bliss when there was a strange light that shone in our tent. We listened in and realized a car was backing up on to the road somewhere near us. So we went back to sleep. Suddenly, we heard this rustling of leaves near our tent. Just then, the shadow of a figure appeared in our tent moving with the movement of the car’s lights. Our first thoughts were we had a visitor on four paws. My husband held on to my hand with an iron grip and said “ Don’t worry, I got you.”. On the other side, he held on to his brother’s hand and assured him the same.
Once the car lights were gone, I didn’t think much of it and focused on going back to sleep. But it seemed my husband decided he couldn’t sleep and wouldn’t let us sleep until he had figured out what was rustling the leaves outside our tent. It turned out to be just a small flap flailing about in the wind on the side of our tent that had our over-imaginative minds guessing.
The first time camping is always the best one. You hear all these stories about bears making entrances. And especially after an evening of making dosas on a campsite, your mind is run with ideas of a dosa-craving bear rummaging around the site for dosas and a cup of chutney!
There is nothing like a warm bowl of lentil-y garlic-ky rasam with rice and a peppery potato curry in this world. It is the ultimate comfort food that isn’t loaded with calories and makes you feel like you are wrapped in a cozy blanket by the fireside in winter. A good rasam builds with time and patience. You can’t stir it continuously nor can you rush it. It is like brewing tea. The more you steep, the more you build the flavors. Rasam tastes even better the next day in my opinion.
Inspirations from Karnataka
During my time living in Karnataka, I was introduced to their version of rasam. Their brews are brighter, sweeter and very drinkable. I realized years later as I experimented with different versions of rasams and spice powders that a combination of my Tamil style rasam combined with a Kannadiga style rasam powder makes for a rasam like you’ve never had before. My recipe for rasam powder makes a soul-satisfying broth and can also be used to spice up your potato curry. It is also an excellent garnish for sambars.
Notes:
Store in an air-tight container. It should last about 3-4 months.
I use dried curry leaves bought in bulk to make this powder. It is less expensive here in the US. Fresher curry leaves lend a brighter flavor.
You can also a small piece of solid asafetida for a more authentic flavor.
New York city to me is the city of hope. A strong invisible rope that runs along the city binds every New Yorker together and this is visible to an outsider like me. You can feel a strong sense of community amidst the chaos and it’s beautiful to see.
On our way to NYC
Driving to New York city from Virginia after a weekend with family, we stayed put in nearby New Jersey overlooking the city of New York. From our landscape windows of every single room of our apartment stay, we saw the twinkling lights of the skyscrapers and the breathtaking Hudson river bearing boats and ferries carrying passengers back and forth. I could never get tired of this sight. It was worth waking up to and also the last thing to see every day and night!
Boats of New York
Staying in New Jersey was a conscious decision because this was our daughter’s first trip ever. Choosing to experience the magical NYC during the day and the quiet of Jersey by night, our vacation was planned around lots of subway rides, experiencing New York’s food scene and the architechtural magnificence of New York while winding down to a relaxed evening back at our apartment in New Jersey.
Visiting the Empire State Building is a must but one that you should do with skip-the-line tickets if possible. The extra cost provided us with a wonderful experience and witness the panoramic views of New York city with towering skyscrapers that look like legos from on top of the tower to the silk ribbon of the Hudson River seen from any part of the building is spectacular. The elevator looks straight of Mad Men portraying a very 60s – 70s glamorous corporate scene. The elevator ride stops in a few floors. The 2nd floor is a great spot to capture the essence of New York city and the Empire State building with interactive simulation, videos and displays. The 86th floor is an open air observatory where you witness the expanse of New York City in the finest bird’s eye-view.
Birds-eye view of New York City
Other adventures in New York city included the lush green Central Park, a rare sight in a concrete jungle, the Statue of Liberty sightseeing cruise, the National 9/11 Memorial, Times Square, Rockefeller center and much more. Another favorite spot is the Oculus, a terminal situated by the 9/11 memorial and one world observatory on the subway system. It is modern and architecturally very unique, a must see if you visit New York.
Oculus
For a New York – Italian experience, we headed to Eataly, a stylish Italian market with shops, restaurants and bars that were all things Italian. It is certainly not for the budget traveller. Eataly is a true gourmet experience to drink the finest of wine and ingredients so rare in fresh made-to-serve pastas and pizzas.
The many wheels of cheese at Eataly, NYC
On the humbler side of things, we had to make the mandatory Joe’s Pizza pit-stop recommended by all tourist pages. A small hole-in-the-wall serving you fresh pizzas by the slice, Joe’s is a stop you must take because what is a trip to New York after all if you don’t eat a good slice of pizza there?
Joe for the win 😉Joe’s slice of heaven
The beauty of New York is the amalgamation of different cultures. It is the land of immigrants and it shows in the vibrancy that is New York. Famed for its Chinatown, we stopped at Xi’an foods to experience their hand-pulled noodles from the Szechuan cuisine recommended by many locals. This place is mandatory if you love authentic Chinese food. The chili oil made with Sichuan peppercorns and garlic is to die for. Hugging and holding on to fresh hand-pulled noodles, the dish is a super hit!
America’s first pizzeria
Even though I am not someone with a sweet tooth, I had to make a stop at Momofoku Milk Bar. Christina Tosi is one of my favourite TV pastry chefs and the simplicity behind the concept of her birthday cake recipe never ceases to amaze me. I got the famous cereal milk soft serve with cornflakes crunch on top. Growing up, I would always finish up the cornflakes leaving some of that milk with cornflakes bits behind. This milk soaked with the flavor of our beloved Kellogg’s cornflakes was the highlight of having cereal. The cereal milk soft serve is exactly just that! It brings back a rush of childhood memories and if you’re one of the many cereal milk lovers, this has to be on your list of things to do when you visit New York.
Fearless Girl better than the charging bull
I could go on and on about New York and the many things I did on my trip there. And this was just my first trip. There is so much more I haven’t seen and it will take me atleast a dozen more trips to say I’ve seen the city with all my heart. But what travelogue of New York is complete without the mention of their subways. Saving the best for last, the New York subway is an amazing experience for anyone that doesn’t have a subway system in their city. It connects you faster and better than any car or taxi. Of course, the taxis there are popular. In my opinion, the trains are a much better option. And to get the best New York subway experience, head to the Grand Central station. It is like going to a concert you will never forget. The experience is definitely one of a lifetime for every tourist. The grandiose of the structure, the music and the pure energy of the people flooding it make this the most vibrant place you will experience anywhere on the planet.
The grand chandeliers of Grand Central
The city of New York is truly a city that never sleeps. It has so much to offer for every person. From the constant music to the mouth-watering selection of foods to the many social events happening in the city, New York is an emotion that has to be experienced at least once in your lifetime!
Subways of NY
Side note – For people that grew up watching Friends the tv show, check out 90 Bedford St, New York and even a small restaurant where Central Perk should have been!
I hear an annoying buzz in my ear. It’s the damn fly again. A man pedals by on his bicycle. The smell of pakodas are wafting in the air. Mmmm….. delicious! I bet it’s the Pakoda House. Maybe I’ll swing by later…
HONK! A car wants me to move out of the way. Maybe I’ll swing by now. So I start walking to my favorite spot, the king of the food street- Pakoda House. Seriously, this is the best place in the world. The owner Mr. Kamesh adores me and I charm him into giving me a pakoda or two. Mr. Kamesh, who smells of pakodas and chutney, is the nicest man you will ever know.
I am waiting in line and don’t understand why it is his assistant handing out the food today. Where is Mr.Kamesh? I ask but no one seems to respond. I go closer to the assistant. He pats me on my back and smiles but doesn’t say a thing. I refuse the pakodas and decide to wait a little longer. A few hours later, my best friend Mani comes by for his afternoon samosa. Still no sign of Mr.Kamesh. I wait all day by the corner of the shop for Mr. Kamesh. My day is never complete without him.
It is now night. The cows in the street are fast asleep. The low rumble of vehicles are heard lesser and lesser as the hours pass by. It is almost midnight when a vague smell of pakodas and chutney fills the air. I perk up my ears to hear the footsteps that followed. A hand strokes my back and ruffles my ears. I jump up to find Mr. Kamesh smiling at me. We hug it out. He brings me a bowl of my favorite dog food and puts in two pakodas as opposed to the usual one and says “I’m sorry Raja I made you wait all day. This extra one is to say I’m sorry.” It is all good. I swallow both pakodas in one huge bite. I can now finally have a good night’s sleep.
If you’re a fan of South Indian cuisine, you’re probably familiar with vathal kuzhambu. This tangy and spicy tamarind-based stew is a staple in many South Indian households, and undoubtedly, for good reason! It’s packed with complex flavors and aromatic spices, making it a delight for your taste buds. But have you ever tried making it with butternut squash? Adding butternut squash to the vathal kuzhambu recipe is a sweet twist on the classic dish and a delicious way to enjoy the hearty and sweet flavors of this seasonal squash.
Learn how to make butternut squash vathal kuzhambu step-by-step, so you can enjoy this delicious meal in the comfort of your own home. Let’s get started!
Where It Began
Rural Tamil culture is one that was born out of nature. The simple, traditional rural life of Tamil Nadu is one that just makes sense today. Eco-friendly, sustainable, and respectful of all living things.
Evolution of Vathals
Tamil Nadu is a tropical place that experiences hot and humid weather for a large chunk of every year. Historically, the woman discovered ways to preserve food for longer due to the warmer conditions and the lack of refrigeration technology. The need to preserve food sparked a slew of sun-dried recipes. These recipes were made annually when the days shifted to hotter temperatures. The practice of sun drying is called differently in different communities across Tamil Nadu. One such practice is drying vathals in the sun.
How Vathals are made
Vathals are made by sun-drying any vegetable or fruit. Unlike fresh vegetables, it is interesting that the more traditional varietals are made from the West’s highly frowned upon black nightshade plant Manathakkali and the Solanum Torvum plant, also known as Sundakkai.
Some involve soaking them in buttermilk and salt for a few days until they turn color. Some involve mixing fresh-cut vegetables or fruit in a thick batter made from rice flour, green chilies, and other spices. They are then sun-dried in small pieces on a large piece of thin muslin cloth. Obviously, these are just a couple of ways to do it. There are plenty of other variations to make the sun-dried recipe. The Vathals can be fried to be used in stews or just like that as a snack!
Substitute Vathals with Vegetables in your Vathal Kuzhambu Recipe
Once the Vathals are made, they are simmered in stews as a replacement for fresh vegetables that may not readily be available. A popular dish that uses them is the traditional Tamil dish Vathal Kuzhambu which holds a very special place in every Tamil recipe book today. It is the recipe we make when we want something comforting and special that will last longer than a day.
This recipe, however, can also be made with fresh vegetables and fruits, referred to as thaan. In our family, we love a very unconventional butternut squash thaan for making an Iyer-style Vathal Kuzhambu and pair this with a hearty South Indian Urulai Roast Kari. Here’s my recipe.
Notes:
I can’t pinpoint what castor oil does to this dish. But the tablespoon makes the kuzhambu taste rich.
*Appalams are sun-dried lentil flatbread deep-fried in oil. They make excellent accompaniments to rice-based dishes or are great as a snack.
